Last weekend I spent Sunday grading up the pattern for the dress I am making, McCall 4221, for a formal event the third week of November – the Mark of Excellence awards.
It is a 34 bust, and I am not – my high bust is a 36, regular is a 38. I’ve graded patterns up before, but not one with a bodice-and-sleeve-in-one. There’s also a scallop to the front, which limits where shortening can happen, which I nearly always have to do because of my short torso. The front bodice piece is now a frankenpiece – there are slashes and tape all over the place. Thank goodness for this book – the Bishop Method of Clothing Construction. I had no clue where to start, and the internet had an underwhelming amount of information for a change.
I tried a simple addition at the center front (which would make the dart fall in a strange place) then a full bust adjustment (would have only kind of solved the problem) before I settled on a simple slash and spread method. I had to limit it to two places in the pattern as when I tried a third place in the portion of the bodice under the sleeve, it would have overlapped with the attached sleeve portion, which I assume would mess up the whole cutting out of the fabric thing. So here is what I have, and it appears to work on my dress form:
The muslin is up next!